Polysorbate 80 is a surfactant (cleansing agent) composed of fatty acids—primarily oleic acid, but others such as palmitic or linoleic acid may also be present. It is often included in skin care formulations as an emulsifying or solubilizing agent and can help create a more aesthetically pleasing texture.

Research shows it also enhances the penetration of other key ingredients such as antioxidants.

In its raw material form, polysorbate 80 has a viscous oily liquid appearance and can vary in color from yellow to amber.